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Children and the Fashion Industry: When are they TOO young?

Beautifully Invisible — Tue, 11 Jan 2011 23:03:49 +0000

How many times have you flipped through the pages of a fashion magazine or watched a runway show and thought to yourself that a certain model was too skinny? Too fat? Too short? Too pretty? Too average? Too tall? Too curvy? Too lanky? Too old? Too young?

If at least one of these thoughts has never crossed your mind, I think it’s safe to say that you are in the minority. At some point, each of these characteristics has caused a stir in the fashion industry. The continuing curvy/straight sized debate was perhaps one of the hottest topics in 2010 and was covered by numerous media outlets. I imagine that it will continue to be a much talked about subject in the new year as more and more designers incorporate plus-sized models into their runway shows.

Today, however, I want to move the focus to a different subject:

Is there such a thing as too young when it comes to the world of fashion?

Much like the curvy/straight- size debate, the controversy surrounding youth in the fashion industry is not a new one. Is it any surprise, then, that one of the first fashion-related controversies of 2011 has to do with a couple of 6-year old models shot by photographer Sharif Hamza?

Image via fashionism.ca

When I first saw the images from the CADEAUX editorial in the December/January issue of Vogue France, the first word that popped into my head was “cute.” Yup. Cute.

Image via fashionism.ca

These girls were clearly (in my opinion) styled to look like they were playing dress up in their mother’s clothing. I mean, what young girl doesn’t do that when she is growing up? I used to throw on my mother’s size 9 stilettos, my favorite flowy skirt (which I’d style as a dress), one of her long necklaces, a couple of rings and wobble around the house while wearing her red lipstick. I thought I looked just like her.

Image via fashionism.ca

When I see these images, that is the scenario I have playing in my head. Little girls playing dress up – wanting to be just like their mother.

People like Xeni Jardin at boingboing, meanwhile, see “an extensive spread of child models presented more or less like whores.”

Wait. WHAT?!

Are we looking at the same photos?

Everyone knows Tom Ford likes to be controversial, and as the guest editor and artistic director of this issue of Vogue, he certainly accomplished that with the editorial content. I can see this editorial as a jab at the Toddlers & Tiaras crowd. I can also see it as a statement about the sexualization of youth: no matter how hard someone tries to sexualize a little girl, she is still a little girl. But implying that these young girls were styled as whores? I shudder even writing it. I don’t see it. AT ALL.

Perhaps it is because the words 6-year old children and whore just don’t go together in my vocabulary. It’s impossible.

Image via fashionism.ca

The image above appears to be the one that is causing the biggest stir. Is she lounging on a fur? Yes. Does she look provocative? It’s a matter of opinion and mine is no. Most importantly – she is dressed up in mom’s clothes! Look at those heels – they are too big for her. She is wearing mom’s bracelet as an anklet. She is wearing mom’s very expensive clothing. She is playing dress up, people! At least that is how I see it.

That being said: are these girls too young to be in a fashion magazine, in this type of editorial? Clearly some find it provocative and down-right disturbing. Should fashion magazines avoid featuring young children like this, or is it OK as long as the parents are involved? What do you think?

Do the rules change as children get older?

A 12-year old… supermodel?

In 2007, the decision to name 12 year-old Maddison Gabriel as the official ambassador of Gold Coast Fashion Week in Australia made headlines. Then Prime Minister John Howard strongly opposed the decision. Howard said that “catapulting girls as young as 12 into something like that is outrageous and I’m totally opposed to it…we do have to preserve some notion of innocence in our society.” He went as far as to suggest that Australia follow the lead of some European nations and ban the use of runway models under the age of 16.

Maddison at the age of 12. I don’t even look like this grown up at the age of 35! (Image via news.com.au)

Maddison, on the contrary, stated her belief that “it doesn’t matter about age, it matters that you can do the job. Modeling is all I’ve wanted to do since I was six – I don’t think I’m too young.” She also indicated that as long as she can fit into women’s clothing, there is no reason that she shouldn’t be able to model them.

Her mother, Michelle Gabriel, attributed Howard’s opinion to his age. “He does not know exactly what 13 and 14-year-old girls are like.” she said. “We’re trying to get our teenage daughters to act older. I am so happy that I’ve got a daughter who has got a good head on her shoulders.”

Can someone please tell me why would a 12 or 13-year old girl would need to act like she is older?

Opinions will vary on this subject, but I tend to agree that a 12-year old is too young to work in the fashion industry in this capacity. There is an inherent sexuality in fashion editorials and runway shows. As such, the models which participate in them should be of an appropriate age to deal with that sexuality. Janice Dickinson, the world’s first supermodel, perhaps said it best when she spoke to the Today Show’s Matt Lauer about the personal problems many young children develop as a result of their fame:

“There’s lots of drugs, there’s lots of alcohol, there’s lots of photographers preying on these girls. Thirteen is way too young…”

As if to support Dickenson’s comments, Martin Robertson, a convicted American sex predator, contacted The Sunday Telegraph the following year from his Texas jail cell and requested photos and articles about Maddison. When this news broke, Mrs. Gabriel criticized the media for reporting on the controversy in 2007 and thereby alerting Robertson of her daughter’s existence. She didn’t seem to grasp that Maddison’s modeling career was truly the underlying cause of Robertson’s interest – it sexualized her daughter in his eyes.

Hannah Montana not so innocent?

In early 2008, renowned photographer Annie Lebovitz caused quite a stir when she shot 15-year old Miley Cyrus for Vanity Fair. The most controversial image was the provocative photo below in which Miley appears to be naked and wrapped in a satin sheet. In the accompanying article, written by Bruce Handy, Miley was quoted as saying “I think it’s really artsy. It wasn’t in a skanky way. Annie took, like, a beautiful shot, and I thought that was really cool. That’s what she wanted me to do, and you can’t say no to Annie.”

Image via Vanity Fair

Strangely enough, when the controversy erupted, Cyrus changed her mind about the shoot, and issued the following statement:

“I took part in a photo shoot that was supposed to be ‘artistic’ and now, seeing the photographs and reading the story, I feel so embarrassed. I never intended for any of this to happen, and I apologize to my fans who I care so deeply about.”

Vanity Fair then released a video and behind-the-scenes images supporting their assertion that “Miley’s parents and/or minders were on the set all day. Since the photo was taken digitally, they saw it on the shoot and everyone thought it was a beautiful and natural portrait of Miley.”

Personally, I did not have a problem with Lebovitz’s shots of Miley (for the most part). Do I think they were provocative? Yes. Do I think they were sexual? Yes. But I am of the opinion that her parents were aware of what was going on, and they had given their approval for the images. If anything, the image of Miley and her father together makes me more uneasy because they seem a bit too close for comfort.

What is interesting to me is how Miley’s opinion of the shoot changed once the controversy began swirling. Do you know what is even more interesting? That her parents let this happen and then tried to absolve themselves of the responsibility behind it. There is no doubt that Lebovitz’s provocative images sexualized Cyrus, so why pretend to be appalled when they clearly knew what was going on?

The first Lolita?

(NOTE: though the images below are considered “art”, some may find the images ahead offensive. Please continue at your own risk)

Just about everyone knows about then 13-year old Brooke Shield’s infamous role as a child prostitute in the film Pretty Baby. To this day, some consider the film child pornography due to its nude scenes, and most existing versions of the DVD have been edited to avoid showing Brooke’s pubic area or buttocks.

It seems that many people do not know about the photos of a naked 10-year old Brooke Shields which were taken by photographer Garry Donald Gross in 1975, 3 years before Pretty Baby was filmed. The images were not only taken with the consent of Shield’s mother, but mother and daughter received $450 total in compensation for the photoshoot. I couldn’t talk about this subject without touching on these photos as well. Although these aren’t images from a fashion magazine, they do touch on the sexualization of children.

Image via Iconic Photos

Today, some consider the images to be art while others find them to be of questionable taste and even liken them to child pornography. In recent years the startling image of Shield’s below was displayed at the Guggenheim and even in Paris, but a planned 2009 exhibit at the Tate in London fell through do to Britain’s strict obscenity laws.

Image via Iconic Photos

Although both sets of photos are controversial, I believe the difference between these images and the CADEAUX photoshoot is striking. In today’s society, a photographer would never get away with taking photos like these – they would be considered child pornography. End of story. Yet due to the history of these particular photos, they are considered art.

Image via Iconic Photos

The CADEAUX images, on the other hand, may cause a stir, but they do not have the same impact as these images do. The nudity present here adds a whole new level of discomfort and sexuality. Frankly, I am astounded that Shield’s mother allowed them to be taken and sold!

So what do you think? Should there be an age restriction when it comes to fashion editorials or modeling? Or do you think a parent’s permission (which clearly can be questionable) is all that is required?

Tom Ford’s Womenswear Collection in V and W Magazines

Beautifully Invisible — Thu, 23 Dec 2010 16:55:12 +0000

I have a confession.

I love all things Tom Ford. I know that must be a shock to you. Really.

Just because I posted about him here, here, here, here, here and here… that wasn’t a dead giveaway right?

So there is no doubt in anyone’s mind of my love/obsession/admiration/etc., I had to share these images from the January 2011 issue of W Magazine. Everyone (including myself) had been raving about the photos of the collection that were just recently featured in U.S. Vogue and Vogue France. Know what? I love these shots more.

The pictorial, which was photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, stars Lara Stone modeling some of the statement pieces in the collection. What makes it more appealing (to me) than the images in Vogue is the movement. I love seeing the way material flows and moves on a model. It’s the reason I love catwalk videos. Inez and Vinoodh captured that movement in these images, and the effect is stunning.

Each of the pieces in Ford’s new collection were designed for a particular model. The colorful shredded organza shrug, silk crepe dress, satin corset and shoes below were designed for Rachel Feinstein.

Image via W Magazine

Ford designed this dress for Karen Elson. Despite being dubbed by some as the “Cookie Monster” dress, it has been featured in quite a few fashion magazines, including the Emily Blunt Cover of Harper’s Bazaar UK. Maybe I am crazy, but I love this dress. I love the fringe and the color. Especially the color. I wouldn’t care who called me Cookie Monster – I’d OWN this.

Image via W Magazine

This double-silk georgette kimono catsuit, originally designed for Lou Doillon, is my favorite of the bunch. Check out those sleeves. This shot is just brilliant.

Image via W Magazine

Ford considers this dress one of the most dramatic looks from his new line. Designed for Daphne Guinness, it is constructed from sequins and embroidered silk with netting.

Image via W Magazine

Beautiful right? If you still aren’t convinced, check out this interview with Ford in the latest issue of V Magazine. Julia Restoin Roitfeld, the beautiful daughter of Carine Roitfeld (SIDE NOTE: Carine Roitfeld has resigned from her position as editor-in-chief of French Vogue), sat down with Ford and slipped into a few pieces of the Spring collection for this series of stunning self-portraits:

Self-portrait of Julia Restoin Roitfeld, Image via V Magazine

So, what do you think of these pictorials? Now that the collection has been revealed for some time – what are your thoughts?

**********

On a side note, I came across an old favorite 2005 W Magazine interview with Ford entitled “Fordbitten” when I was on W Magazine’s website. Seeing that I don’t just adore Ford’s designs – I adore HIM (and desperately wish I could stumble upon a heterosexual version of him that would fall madly in love with me), I had to share a couple of my favorites images, but the interview is worth a read. One of my favorite Ford quotes from the article:

“We’ve become plastic, objectifying the human body…waxed and polished and buffed and shined up and manipulated,” Ford says. “And then, of course, I’m portrayed as the one doing the manipulating, the polishing, buffing, shaping, which is what I do. It’s just what we do. What the fashion industry does.”

All images are by Steven Klein.

A whole lotta sexyyyy. Image via W Magazine.

Image via W Magazine

*Sigh* Why can't he have a twin? Image via W Magazine

Do you remember this interview? What do you think?

Steven Meisel vs. Tom Ford: Who Does Plastic Surgery Best?

Beautifully Invisible — Tue, 30 Nov 2010 17:29:05 +0000

I am about to say something that will stun my regular readers.

I am disappointed in the Crystal Renn/Tom Ford plastic surgery editorial in the Holiday Issue of Vogue Paris. (See all the images from the shoot here).

Crystal Renn by Tom Ford (Image via The Fashion Spot)

I know, it’s hard to believe I would say anything even remotely bad about Tom Ford. I basically worship the ground the man walks on. When I first saw the full editorial yesterday I was baffled by it, but the more I studied it, the more I found that I liked it. Yet something kept eating at me… although I don’t hate it, I don’t love it either. And I wanted to love it.

Crystal Renn by Tom Ford (Image via The Fashion Spot)

Let me explain. When WWD broke the news about Tom Ford being the guest editor for the December 2010/January 2011 issue of Vogue Paris, the article included this tantalizing line:

“…and another [feature] devoted to mature women who have resisted plastic surgery. “He very much likes beautiful wrinkles,” [editor-in-chief] Roitfeld said, flashing a smile.

As soon as I read those words, my mind was swimming with possibilities. I flashed back to the first time I had seen Steven Meisel’s 2005 Vogue Italia editorial on plastic surgery, “Makeover Madness,” and how much I had enjoyed that commentary. Published at a time when plastic surgery had finally become “mainstream”, the editorial glamorized the subject in a deliberately tongue-and-cheek manner. The images, some of which can be found below, were a creative, thought-provoking, powerful commentary on the culture of plastic surgery.

Image via The Fashion Critic (cached Google page)

Image via The Fashion Spot

Image via The Fashion Critic (cached Google page)

The idea of Tom Ford’s editorial, which reportedly was to focus on mature women who resisted plastic surgery, was extremely appealing to me. The possibilities seemed endless. Who would the women be? How would he tackle this subject? What would the message be?

In no point in time did it ever cross my mind that what we might get would be Crystal Renn in a hyper-stylized, hyper-sexual rendering of a “cougar” undergoing various procedure. That being said, it’s true the images in “La Panthère Ose” are evocative. They are eerie. They are thought-provoking. But compared to Meisel’s 2005 editorial, they fall flat. This is why I am disappointed. The potential was there for this to be a remarkable editorial. Instead, we are expected to revel in its mediocrity when we could be reveling in something of this caliber:

Image via The Fashion Critic (cached Google page)

Image via The Fashion Spot

Image via The Fashion Critic (cached Google page)

What do you think of the two editorials? Which one do you consider to be the more powerful commentary on plastic surgery?

Photoshoot: Crystal Renn by Tom Ford for Vogue Paris Holiday Issue

Beautifully Invisible — Mon, 29 Nov 2010 22:53:54 +0000

When I first published this photo a few days ago, I had no idea the woman in the editorial shoot was the stunning Crystal Renn. Can you blame me? She underwent a striking transformation for this photoshoot!

Image via Vogue Paris

In “La Panthère Ose”, Tom Ford and the unstoppable Crystal Renn give us an evocative look at at the plastic-surgery addict. Renn, who was styled by none other than Vogue Paris Editor-in-Chief Carine Roitfeld, underwent a remarkable transformation for the shoot. She told The Fashionista.com:

“What I enjoy most about my job is the opportunity to express myself, often doing this by becoming a sort of character on the shoots that I do, and every time I work with Carine I feel the character approach is emphasized. When they were taking the cast of my face, fitting me for prosthetic cheeks and lips, I remember thinking this is why I do my job, for moments like this. After the shoot I took that very mask and asked Tom to sign it, it sits in my living room as we speak.”

That is certainly a priceless souvenir! And the shoot is sure to be one of the most buzzed about it the issue:

Image via The Fashion Spot

Please note: there is a guy between her legs. I missed that the first 2 times I looked at this photo! Threesome! Image via The Fashion Spot

Please note: there are TWO guys in this shot. Threesome again! Image via The Fashion Spot

Image via The Fashion Spot

Anyone else think she resembles Kim Kardashian here? (Except Kim looks normal, of course!) Image via The Fashion Spot

Image via The Fashion Spot

They are certainly striking… disturbing… hyper-sexual… evocative… and eerily beautiful images. What do you think?

Photoshoot Details:
Vogue Paris, December 2010/January 2011
Model: Crystal Renn
Stylist: Carine Roitfeld
Photographer: Tom Ford

Sneak Peak: Guest Editor Tom Ford’s Vogue Paris, December 2010/January 2011 Issue

Beautifully Invisible — Fri, 26 Nov 2010 09:00:39 +0000

Finally, some new images have cropped up from the December/January Issue which was edited (and heavily photographed!) by the iconic Tom Ford.

1. Let’s start with the cover image again. As first discussed here, Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott photographed the shot with Tom Ford and 15 year old Daphne Groeneveld. Anyone else think she looks like a cross between Lara Stone and 1970s Jerry Hall?

Image via Vogue Paris

2. I can’t read French. For the first time in my life, I wish I had taken French lessons instead of Spanish! Who knew. This image appears to be from some sort of advertorial to me… maybe Christmas? Anyone know? Regardless – I adore it. How cute are these little girls, all dressed up in mommy’s clothes? It kind of makes you want to be a kid again.

Image via Vogue Paris

3. Then there is this article (or is it just photographs?) by Lisa Eisner. This WWD article mentioned that this is a very personal issue for Mr. Ford. He asked some of his closest friends to contribute, including Eisener. I bet she took the photo, and I love it.

Image via Vogue Paris

4. “Mes Swans” is the editorial which focuses on the woman who inspire the genius. Betty Catroux is a well-known muse of Mr. Ford’s, so it is only fitting that hers be the first image released. My guess is that this will be one of the most interesting editorials (and likely my favorite) in the issue, plus Tom Ford was the photographer! And they are all wearing his designs! Can’t go wrong with that.

Image via Vogue Paris

5. Wait – something is missing. Where is Tom Ford?! Here we have Daphne again in the same pose (but a different outfit) from the cover shot. Can I just say that I adore the top she has on? I have to add that to my lust list immediately. I am guessing this will be the editorial on the new collection. OK, maybe THIS will be my favorite editorial.

Image via Vogue Paris

6. Then we have this image. I am not sure what this editorial will focus on. My first instinct is that it is about love… but I also know one of the editorials focuses on high jewelry. There is a whole lot of bling in this shot. Just saying.

Image via Vogue Paris

7. This editorial was photographed by Terry Richardson at Tom Ford’s New Mexico ranch. Love him or hate him, Richardson’s shoots are always interesting and buzzworthy. Can’t wait to see the rest of this one.

Image via Vogue Paris

8. Well, I don’t know the name of Mr. Ford’s ranch, but I know it is in Sante Fe. I am guessing this is an editorial that doesn’t focus on fashion, but on an aspect of his life instead.

Image via Vogue Paris

9. This is sure to be one of the most intriguing reads in the issue. “La Pan There Ose” is a piece that focuses on mature women who have resisted having plastic surgery.

Image via Vogue Paris

That is it for the previews! The issue is supposed to be available on November 30th and includes a calendar with model Daria Werbowy.

My verdict? I am going to need a French to English translator because this is a must have. Do you agree?

Teaser: Tom Ford for Vogue Paris Holiday Issue

Beautifully Invisible — Thu, 18 Nov 2010 16:18:51 +0000

You’ll have to excuse me for the excessive Tom Ford-related posts this week. It’s just that I am just a little bit… obsessed.

I can’t help it. After that LONG (unbearable!) wait for a glimpse at Mr. Ford’s Spring 2011 womanswear collection, images from the preview in the December US Vogue finally surfaced on the internet. The verdict? The seventies-inspired collection is classic and lust-worthy (frankly, both Tom and the collection are drool-worthy!)

Now, images and a glimpse at the content in store for us in the December/January 2011 Holiday Issue issue of Vogue Paris have come to light. Mr. Ford is the guest editor of the issue, and it has become evident to me that I MUST get my hands on it. It is as vital to my survival as breathing air…

Tom Ford and Daphne Groeneveld in Vogue, (via WWD)

The cover, photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, is striking in its simplicity. Tom Ford and Daphne Groeneveld both ooze sexuality, and you are left wondering exactly what that dress she is wearing looks like. The only downside I see is Daphne’s young age: I think I would have preferred it if they had used someone like Lara Stone (who Daphne is styled to resemble) for such a sensual cover instead. But that is just me.

As for the content of the issue, according to WWD, Tom Ford “wrote articles, photographed and styled well features, cast models and art directed everything with the exacting style for which he’s famous.”

He photographed the likes of Lauren Hutton fresh off the runway for a fashion story about his muses, all wearing Tom Ford. Other fashion brands figure in well features envisioned by Ford: one photographed by Terry Richardson at his New Mexico ranch; one on high jewelry, and another devoted to mature women who have resisted plastic surgery. “He very much likes beautiful wrinkles,” [editor-in-chief] Roitfeld said, flashing a smile.

Lisa Eisner and Lauren Hutton wearing Tom Ford (via WWD)

Of the issue, WWD also says:

While at times sarcastic and even “caustic,” the issue is also deeply personal. Ford peppers the magazine with family photos, and tapped intimates, such as his longtime partner Richard Buckley and close friend Lisa Eisner, to contribute articles about a variety of topics, from beauty to the Los Angeles art scene.

It sounds absolutely delightful.

As for the December 2010 US Vogue, in addition to the article on Tom Ford’s return to womanswear (and gorgeous preview of the collection), the cover shot of Angelina Jolie also contains a touch of Tom Ford. She is wearing a loose fitting white Tom Ford dress with a plunging back and a black lace-up corset underneath. Unfortunately, I don’t think we’ll get to see the front of the dress inside the issue… such a tease.

Angelina Jolie wearing Tom Ford (via Vogue.com)

Now – who can I bribe that lives in France to buy the Holiday Issue issue for me?

Image via Google Images

Gluttony: Crystal Renn for Vogue Paris

Beautifully Invisible — Thu, 30 Sep 2010 16:07:03 +0000

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Terry Richardson has done it again. The ever-controversial photographer is at the center of another maelstrom, thanks to his latest spread in Vogue Paris. Nestled amongst the pages of the magazine’s 90th Anniversary Edition lies an editorial entitled “Festin”, which simply translates to “Feast”. Yet the shoot is anything but simple.

The editorial, starring plus-sized model Crystal Renn, is striking, and will certainly leave a lasting impression on every viewer. Full of rich, opulent colors and rich, opulent foods, the images are unlike any I have seen in recent memory. When I first saw the images my response was less than pleasant. They caused a physical reaction – and it was not a pleasant one. Despite the richness of the shots, I didn’t find the images before me attractive (at all), and I couldn’t focus on any of the accessories or clothing because I was too busy gagging at the vision of Crystal Renn swallowing a squid whole.

As you can see from the image above, the shoot is decidedly phallic and gluttonous in nature – neither of which are surprising, given that Richardson is the photographer. Richardson appears to be making a statement on both lust and gluttony with the shoot.

Gluttony isn’t just about over-eating … it’s about over-indulging. It’s about taking pleasure in something that should simply be essential to survival. Many eons ago, Francis of Assisi used to sprinkle ashes[!] on his food so that he would not enjoy the act of eating. Today, the act of eating has become something different… we derive pleasure from eating, and society encourages us to over-indulge (super size me!). Similarly, gluttony is a theme that could be considered prevalent in the fashion industry. We call it by another name – conspicuous consumption.

Richardson's inspiration? Gluttony by Paul Cadmus, 1949 (on right)

The lustful nature of the shoot is also evident throughout. The sins of lust and gluttony go hand in hand – overindulgence (wine!) leads to lust. Right? Right? Certainly, in these images, the gluttony is leading to some lustful actions!

This may be shocking to some of you, but, in concept, I like this editorial. The problem I have with the shoot lies with the additional message it carries by having a plus-sized model be at the center of it. Whether or not it was Richardson’s intent, having Renn at the center of the spread will raise the question of plus-sized models and their place in the fashion industry. Not everyone will analyze the shoot and think about the messages it contains. Some will simply see a plus-sized model over-indulging, and find nothing attractive or compelling about it.

For me personally, I would have liked to have seen multiple models as the subject of the shoot, of all shapes and sizes. I think that would have made the message much more interesting.

What are your thoughts on the shoot?