Beware: This post is rated NSFW.  There are nude/partially nude/sexually explicit images below.  Continue at your own risk.

The impetus for this post was a recent visit to one of my favorite fashion editorial sites, ZAC Fashion.  I clicked over to see what the latest uploads were and found myself staring at a page rife with nudity and sexual imagery.  I don’t usually have a problem with nudity, but as I stared at the page I found myself wondering “why?”.  What was the point of it all?  What does it have to do with fashion?

Nudity in art is nothing new.  The Venus di Milo, Michelangelo’s David, Goya’s La Maja Desnuda, and Edouard Manet’s Olympia are just a few famous examples that date back centuries.  There are many photographers that are known for their work with nudes, including one of my favorites, Ellen von Unwerth.  Yet the prevalence of nudity in fashion is something new, especially in the United States.

Helmut Newton

There is no denying that media depictions of nudity and sex have long been more accepted in certain parts of Europe.   As a result,  nudity has been present in publications like Vogue Paris and Vogue Italia for years.  Famed photographer Helmut Newton was among the first to shoot semi-nudes and nudes for Vogue Paris, as well as other publications, and his influence over today’s editorials is undeniable.

Various works by Photographer Helmut Newton (images via connect.in.com)

Nudity in art, especially in photographic form, is about the intimacy of a moment.  Newton had an undeniable knack for capturing the sensuality of an image while celebrating the human form.   He did not shoot nudity for nudity’s sake, but instead focused on creating a moment.  An emotion.  He focused on the stark contrast between clothed and unclothed.  Yet some element of fashion was always present in his work, even in the “stilettos-and-nothing-else” look he was famed for.

Sie kommen! (They're Coming!), Vogue Paris 1981 (Helmut Newton)

Sie kommen! is likely Newton’s most famed work for a fashion magazine.  In 1981, Vogue Paris editor-in-chief Francine Crescent showcased Newton’s work in an 8-page spread in the magazines’ November issue.   His fascination with nude versus dressed imagery is clear here.

Modern Influence

We can’t really talk about nudity and sexuality in fashion photography without mentioning Guy Bourdin.  Bourdin was a contemporary of Helmut Newton’s who had a similar impact on fashion photography.   In many ways you could say their works were polar opposites. Newton is known for capturing monochromatic, intimate images of imagined private lives (oftentimes sadomasochistic).  Bourdin’s work was highly stylized and saturated with color.  They both chose to tell stories with their cameras and the fashion was often secondary.  Yet it was always present in some form.

Left to Right (top): Kate Winslet by Steven Meisel for Vanity Fair, Doutzen Kroes by Mario Testino for V Magazine Swimsuit Issue Left to Right (bottom):  Charlotte Rampling as Venus in Furs by Helmut Newton (2002),  Photo by Guy Bourdin

You can clearly see the influence of Newton and Bourdin in the fur-focused editorials above.  But Steven Meisel and Mario Testino aren’t the only photographers to take a page from their book.  It turns out that the oft-controversial Terry Richardson takes after the two of them as well.  A LOT.

Left to Right (top): Blake Lively and Leighton Meester by Terry Richardson for Rolling Stone, Photograph by Helmut Newton Left to Right (bottom): Crystal Renn by Terry Richardson for Vogue Paris, Photo by Guy Bourdin

If I didn’t know better I’d say that last shot with the sauerkraut and sausages was by Terry Richardson, that is how similar his aesthetic is to Guy Bourdin’s.

Still not convinced that Newton and Bourdin have influenced today’s fashion photographers?  Then check this out:

Left to right (top): Dolce Vita by Steven Klein for W Magazine, Dolce Vita by Steven Klein for W Magazine (top), Photo by Guy Bourdin (bottom), Steven Meisel for Calvin Klein (s/S 2009) Left to Right (bottom): Photo by Helmut Newton, Steven Klein for Dolce and Gabanna (1997) (top), Eva Mendes for Calvin Klein by Steven Klein (2009), Abby Brothers by Michael Donovan (2011)

Pretty convincing, right?   It looks like sexuality and nudity in fashion has been around much longer than one might think  What’s interesting is that quite a few of the ads above are counted amongst the most controversial in recent years.

What about editorials that are 99% nude models focusing on an accessory here or there?  Do you think those are something new?

Left to Right: Photo by Helmut Newton, Tom Ford for Tom Ford (A/W 2009), Koray Birand for Elle Turkey, and Edita Vilkeviciute by Mert and Marcus (A/W 2011)

Nope, not new.  Helmut Newton did it first my photographing a nude woman rocking a pair of heels.  Advertorials for perfume are another venue where nudity often comes into play today and Tom Ford’s ads are some of the most controversial.  While I was researching this post I came across an image by Guy Bourdin that actually made me gasp out loud.

Left to Right (top):  Tom Ford by Terry Richardson (2007), Photo by Guy Bourdon, Tom Ford by Terry Richardson (2007), Tom Ford by Tom Ford (2011)

Even though the model’s thighs/privates are covered in the Bourdin version, the idea is still there.  I think it’s safe to say Tom Ford is aware of Guy Bourdin’s work.  Terry too.

Final Thoughts

It is clear that both Newton and Bourdin used nudity and sexuality as a form of artistic expression – it just so happens their medium was fashion photography.

So how does that artistic expression translate to fashion today?  To me, fashion editorials are about selling a lifestyle.  I don’t have a problem with nudity and sex in fashion editorials when they are used to evoke an emotion.  Eroticism, sensuality, intimacy.  Even shock.  If it’s done well, it’s quiet effective.

But gratuitous nudity – nudity for nudity’s sake alone – makes less of an impact and elicits a negative response, from me at least.  When is it a form of expression, and when is it art?

Art... or not?

Left to Right (top): Leigh Yeager by Jeff Tse (pic 1 and 2). Left to Right (bottom): Elsa Hosk by Andreas Kock, Elisabet Garcia by François Berthier

Is a net considered a piece of clothing?  What about no clothing/accessories at all?  Is that fashion?

When does it cross the line to soft pornography?

Kirstin Varley by Rankin for S Magazine (via The Fashion Spot)

What are your thoughts on this subject?

Do you think there is too much sex and nudity in fashion editorials?

Do you think it’s a trend that will pass, or do you think it’s here to stay?

All images linked to original sources in description.

Header image: Abby Brothers by Michael Donovan (2011), Lara Stone by Riccardo Tisci (2011), Elsa Hosk by Andreas Kock (2011), Nicole Trunfio by Aram Bedrossian (2011)

Finally, some new images have cropped up from the December/January Issue which was edited (and heavily photographed!) by the iconic Tom Ford.

1. Let’s start with the cover image again.  As first discussed here, Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott photographed the shot with Tom Ford and 15 year old Daphne Groeneveld.  Anyone else think she looks like a cross between Lara Stone and 1970s Jerry Hall?

Image via Vogue Paris

2. I can’t read French.  For the first time in my life, I wish I had taken French lessons instead of Spanish!  Who knew.  This image appears to be from some sort of advertorial to me… maybe Christmas?  Anyone know?  Regardless – I adore it.  How cute are these little girls, all dressed up in mommy’s clothes?  It kind of makes you want to be a kid again.

Image via Vogue Paris

3. Then there is this article (or is it just photographs?) by Lisa Eisner.  This WWD article mentioned that this is a very personal issue for Mr. Ford.  He asked some of his closest friends to contribute, including Eisener.  I bet she took the photo, and I love it.

Image via Vogue Paris

4. “Mes Swans” is the editorial which focuses on the woman who inspire the genius.   Betty Catroux is a well-known muse of Mr. Ford’s, so it is only fitting that hers be the first image released.  My guess is that this will be one of the most interesting editorials (and likely my favorite) in the issue, plus Tom Ford was the photographer!  And they are all wearing his designs!  Can’t go wrong with that.

Image via Vogue Paris

5. Wait – something is missing.  Where is Tom Ford?!  Here we have Daphne again in the same pose (but a different outfit) from the cover shot.  Can I just say that I adore the top she has on?  I have to add that to my lust list immediately.  I am guessing this will be the editorial on the new collection.  OK, maybe THIS will be my favorite editorial.

Image via Vogue Paris

6. Then we have this image.  I am not sure what this editorial will focus on.  My first instinct is that it is about love… but I also know one of the editorials focuses on high jewelry.  There is a whole lot of bling in this shot.  Just saying.

Image via Vogue Paris

7. This editorial was photographed by Terry Richardson at Tom Ford’s New Mexico ranch.  Love him or hate him, Richardson’s shoots are always interesting and buzzworthy.  Can’t wait to see the rest of this one.

Image via Vogue Paris

8.  Well, I don’t know the name of Mr. Ford’s ranch, but I know it is in Sante Fe.  I am guessing this is an editorial that doesn’t focus on fashion, but on an aspect of his life instead.

Image via Vogue Paris

9.  This is sure to be one of the most intriguing reads in the issue.   “La Pan There Ose” is a piece that focuses on mature women who have resisted having plastic surgery.

Image via Vogue Paris

That is it for the previews!  The issue is supposed to be available on November 30th and includes a calendar with model Daria Werbowy.

My verdict?  I am going to need a French to English translator because this is a must have.  Do you agree?

Remember a few weeks ago when, after the Emmy’s, Christina Hendricks was all over the fashion news because of a  quote that was run in the Scottish Daily Record? Media outlets ranging from The Cut to the UK Daily Mail to bloggers worldwide (Wendy Brandes did a great post on the topic here) were talking about what she had reportedly said:

“People have been saying some nice, wonderful things about me. Yet not one designer in town will loan me a dress. They only lend out a size 0 or 2. So I’m still struggling for someone to give me a darn dress.”

In my opinion, the article had made her sound very UN-Christina-like.  She sounded extremely entitled, and a more than a bit like a spoiled, whiny brat.  So I defended her more than a few times.  I have followed her interviews enough that it seemed – to me – that something was “off” about the whole thing.  Yes, she had commented in the past about the difficulties her size caused when it came to dressing in designer gowns, but this latest quote seemed particularly out of character.

Fast forward to this quote from the November 2010 issue of Harper’s Bazaar:

“Years ago in an interview, Christina said it was difficult to find a dress that wasn’t a sample size, and she recently saw that quote recycled in a British tabloid. “I was like, Whoa! First of all, I am so grateful any time I get to wear one of these great dresses, and since the show has gotten more popular, I’ve had the opportunity to wear the most amazing designers. I mean, L’Wren Scott? How did that happen?” She is also a huge admirer of John Galliano. “Oh, Galliano,” she faux swoons. “Forever and ever and ever. I don’t care what he does, whether it’s leather, delicate lace, or anything. I’ll carry a riding crop down the red carpet.”

It looks like my instincts were right, and the topic and quote was used by the Daily Record as a way to drum up publicity.   I won’t judge her on an old quote, but rather the things she says today… and although she still references the difficulties she has fitting into sizes, she also admits that she is fortunate in that she has numerous opportunities to wear designer pieces.  She sounds neither entitled nor whiny – just grateful.

To read the rest of the interview, click here. Check out the photos by Terry Richardson and behind-the-scenes video below.

Photoshoot Details:
Harper’s Bazaar, November 2010
Photographer: Terry Richardson

What do you think of the shoot? Pretty low-key for Terry Richardson, right?

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Terry Richardson has done it again. The ever-controversial photographer is at the center of another maelstrom, thanks to his latest spread in Vogue Paris. Nestled amongst the pages of the magazine’s 90th Anniversary Edition lies an editorial entitled “Festin”, which simply translates to “Feast”. Yet the shoot is anything but simple.

The editorial, starring plus-sized model Crystal Renn, is striking, and will certainly leave a lasting impression on every viewer. Full of rich, opulent colors and rich, opulent foods, the images are unlike any I have seen in recent memory. When I first saw the images my response was less than pleasant. They caused a physical reaction – and it was not a pleasant one. Despite the richness of the shots, I didn’t find the images before me attractive (at all), and I couldn’t focus on any of the accessories or clothing because I was too busy gagging at the vision of Crystal Renn swallowing a squid whole.

As you can see from the image above, the shoot is decidedly phallic and gluttonous in nature – neither of which are surprising, given that Richardson is the photographer. Richardson appears to be making a statement on both lust and gluttony with the shoot.

Gluttony isn’t just about over-eating … it’s about over-indulging. It’s about taking pleasure in something that should simply be essential to survival. Many eons ago, Francis of Assisi used to sprinkle ashes[!] on his food so that he would not enjoy the act of eating. Today, the act of eating has become something different… we derive pleasure from eating, and society encourages us to over-indulge (super size me!). Similarly, gluttony is a theme that could be considered prevalent in the fashion industry. We call it by another name – conspicuous consumption.

Richardson's inspiration? Gluttony by Paul Cadmus, 1949 (on right)

The lustful nature of the shoot is also evident throughout. The sins of lust and gluttony go hand in hand – overindulgence (wine!) leads to lust. Right? Right? Certainly, in these images, the gluttony is leading to some lustful actions!

This may be shocking to some of you, but, in concept, I like this editorial. The problem I have with the shoot lies with the additional message it carries by having a plus-sized model be at the center of it. Whether or not it was Richardson’s intent, having Renn at the center of the spread will raise the question of plus-sized models and their place in the fashion industry. Not everyone will analyze the shoot and think about the messages it contains. Some will simply see a plus-sized model over-indulging, and find nothing attractive or compelling about it.

For me personally, I would have liked to have seen multiple models as the subject of the shoot, of all shapes and sizes. I think that would have made the message much more interesting.

What are your thoughts on the shoot?